By Tamara Galbraith

Here's a basic primer on how to divide some of your perennials. Don't neglect this fall duty; it's nature's way of giving you free plants!

Just like pruning, dividing should be done in the season opposite of planting, i.e., spring flowering = fall dividing and vice versa. Try to plan your dividing project for a cloudy, slightly cooler day with a good chance of rain thereafter.

Most perennials should be divided every three to five years. However, some, like columbines, poppies and euphorbias shouldn't ever be divided, even if they start to clump. Don't divide woody plants like lavender, rosemary or the bigger artemesias either.

Before starting your division project, thoroughly water all plants to be divided a day or two before you dig in. Likewise, prepare planting holes for the new divisions so they aren't languishing (and drying out) above ground for too long. You can also pot up divisions to build up size, overwintering pots in a protected environment. Make sure your tools are clean and, more importantly, very sharp.

Use a sharp pointed shovel or spading fork to dig down deep on all four sides of the plant, about 4 to 6 inches away from the plant. Pry underneath and lift the whole clump to be divided. If the plant is very large and heavy, you may need to divide it right in the ground with a sharp shovel before lifting the new sections out.

Shake or hose off loose soil and remove dead leaves and stems. This will help loosen tangled root balls and make it easier to see what you are doing. Depending on the root system, divide your plants as follows:

• Spreading root systems that have just a mess of disorganized roots include such plants as asters, bee balm, lamb’s ear, purple cornflowers and many other common perennials. Some can get out of control unless you divide them frequently. Luckily, they can usually can be pulled apart by hand, or cut apart with shears or knife. Divide the plants into clumps of three to five vigorous shoots each. Toss the center of the clump into the compost pile if it looks like it's run its course and is weaker than the outside edges.
• As the name suggests, clumping root systems originate from a central clump with multiple growing points and usually have thick fleshy roots. This group includes astilbes, hostas, daylilies and many ornamental grasses. A sharp knife is handy with these guys, as it is often necessary to cut through the thick crowns to separate the divisions. You can also pry apart these roots with two digging forks held back to back. Make sure at least one developing eye or bud exists on each division.
• Rhizomes are stems that grow horizontally at or above the soil level. Irises are the most common perennial with this type of root system. Divide irises any time between a month after flowering until early fall. Cut and discard rhizome sections that are one year or older and/or showing signs of disease and insect damage. Iris divisions should retain a few inches of rhizome and one fan of leaves, trimmed back halfway. Replant with the "shoulders" of the rhizome showing above soil level.
• Tuberous roots, like dahlias, should be cut apart with a sharp knife. Every division must have a piece of the original stem and a growth bud attached. After division they can either be replanted or stored for spring planting.

Silly as it sounds, dividing is probably my favorite fall gardening chore. When you dig up one daylily and all of a sudden it becomes four...well, for an avid gardener, that's like a magic show and a birthday gift all rolled into one!

Brand new for 2008, the much anticipated Pink Double Knockout® Rose is now available exclusively at Wallace's Garden Center.  Get yours now, in an early market release, and be the first on your block to have this winter hardy, disease resistant, ever-blooming rose.

The chrysanthemum or mum was first cultivated in China as early as the 15th Century B.C.  It was introduced to the Western world during the 17th Century.  Its name come from the Greek words 'chrysos' and 'anthemon,' meaning 'Gold Flower.'

In the modern garden the mum has become a familiar symbol of harvest time and autumn magic. Hardy garden mums are now available in many different forms from the traditional cushion to the whimsical daisy or unique spider (quill) flower.  The rainbow of rich colors presents a palette of options that will complement any landscape.

PLANTING
Chrysanthemums perform best when planted in full to partial sun in a well-drained soil.  Avoid planting in heavy clay.  Ideally, mums should be planted in Spring when they will establish quickly, but  most gardeners plant in the fall when mums are most available. 

Plant mums 18-24" apart.  Water regularly and fertilize with a water soluble fertilizer like Wallace's Super Bloom N Grow.  Fertilizer applications should stop by mid-July so the plant has time to acclimate itself to Fall and Winter weather. 

OVERWINTERING
One of the most frustrating problems for any gardener is the loss or death of hardy mum plants over the winter.  Even the most experienced green thumbs have had to throw out and replace treasured mum plants. 

Why does this happen?  Because of their late planting dates and shallow root systems, mums have a strong tendency to lift or shimmy out of the ground during the freeze-thaw cycles of the winter months.

Tips for Over-wintering Mums

• Plant as early as possible in Fall
• Choose a protected location out of harsh winter winds
• Avoid planting in heavy, wet, clay soils
• Do not cut back the foliage when past bloom
• Mulch plants heavily with compost, shredded mulch, or evergreen boughs

Nothing brightens up a tired garden like the rich yellow, purple, red and orange hues of fall Chrysanthemums.  Freshen up your landscape today.

Nothing breaks us out of our drab winter garden blues like that first yellow crocus bloom peaking out of the snow, and nothing says spring like a big bouquet of blooming tulips and daffodils. 

In order to enjoy these rites of spring, gardeners have to prepare now by planting fall bulbs. 

Fall is a great time of year to work in the garden, and planting bulbs is one of its most rewarding activities.  Bulbs should can be purchased anytime from now until late October or early November and can be planted as long as the ground is not frozen.  Try not to get over-eager.  Bulbs planted too early in warm weather may sprout up early.   Wait for consistently cool temps to put your bulbs in the ground.

When choosing your bulbs, make sure to feel each one to see that it is firm.  Soft or mushy bulbs are rotted and will not produce flowers.  Also, choose an assortment of bulbs that will give you the longest bloom.  Start with crocus for early blooms; add some tulips, daffodils and hyacinths for mid to late spring blooming.  This will give you color for months. 

When you get you bulbs home, choose a sunny area and prepare the soil.  Clay soils should be amended with compost. Plant each bulb according to the instructions.  A good rule of thumb is to plant the bulb 2-3 times deeper than its height.  For example: a 2” tall bulb should be planted 4-6” deep in the soil. If you are planting many bulbs a bulb planting tool or auger is much faster and easier.  Make sure to pick up some Scotts Bulb Food or Miracle-Gro Organic Choice Bone Meal.  Put a small handful in each hole that you dug for the bulbs. 

Wallace's recommends planting bulbs in groups or bouquets.  To do this, plant 5-7 of one kind of bulb in a large hole.  When they come up in the spring they will have a much bigger color impact and will look more natural in the landscape.

After placing the bulbs in the hole, cover with soil and top-dress the area with Scotts Bulb Food.  Wallace's also recommends using Bonide Bulb Saver on your bulbs.  This will keep away mice, moles, rot and decay. 

Fall bulbs are an easy way to get great spring color and inspiration in the garden.  Use the descriptions below to pick out your favorites.

Crocus--The first to bloom and deer resistant

Scilla--Another early bloomer; grows in sun or shade

Tulip--Available in every color of the rainbow; a popular favorite. (Take care to protect from deer in the spring)

Daffodil--Big, bright beautiful yellows, golds, and whites (all deer resistant). Wallace's favorite- the dwarf  'Tête à Tête'. So cute!

Hyacinth--The most fragrant and wonderful for bouquets;  pinks, purples, whites and blues!

Allium--The purple majestic giants of the garden; they always get the neighbors talking

Lycoris (Magic Lily, Naked Ladies, Surprise Lily)--An old fashioned favorite that blooms in fall.

Need a fast growing vine? Like "Jack in the Beanstalk," this extraordinarily vigorous, fast growing vine will top 20' in one season. It is unusually late blooming for a Clematis, bearing clouds of fragrant, 1", star-shaped, white flowers Summer through Fall. The sweet vanilla fragrance is wonderful and not overpowering, bringing back the sweet scents of Spring. After the flowers fade, silvery, plume-like seed heads decorate the vine. "Sweet Autumn Clematis" blooms on current season's wood. It's easily and best pruned in late Spring by cutting last year's stems 6-12" above the ground. Don't be alarmed by this drastic pruning--it's so vigorous that by midseason it will be covering the fence or trellis again. Plant in a sunny, well drained location where its roots can be shaded and cool; a thick layer of mulch works fine.

Mark Your Calendar for Family Fun...
Wallace's Fall Festival is just around the corner.
Saturday and Sunday, October 6 and 7.

Come and enjoy:

• Hot dog lunch (hot dog, chips and soda)--$2.00
• Inflatable slide
• Straw Bale Maze
• Straw Pumpkin Pyramid
• Face painting
• Live band--New Grass Review
• And much more!

All activities free!!

October events:

Guess who's coming to Wallace's? 
Saturday and Sunday, October 20 and 21. Check our website for times and locations. This is a free event.

Recycle those Leaves

18% of the waste that the average family in the U.S. produces comes from the yard and garden.  This debris makes up the bulk of the garbage delivered from homes to the municipal landfill during the fall.

Composting is the most eco-friendly way to deal with the leaves and plant debris from your garden. If you don't compost at home, make sure to give garden waste to the city for composting rather than just throwing it way.